Above: Once the plaster has set he whole mould is turned around. In this image you can see where I have added an extra piece of clay up the back of the base. This will make an extra thick bit of rubber for me to cut later. Once again I added straws, and the scrim has been removed revealing the bare plaster.
Below: Circular locks are cut into the plaster surface which will help to lock the two halves of the the jacket together. Clay slip is added to the bare plaster to prevent the next layers sticking. Straws and a retainer wall are also added.
Below: The plaster steps mentioned previously are repeated to form this half of the mould jacket.
After drawing a circle around the base of the plaster jacket, I opened it up to clean out the clay from both sides (below), this clay is kept to one side so that I can use it to guess-timate the volume of rubber I will need.
The base pattern was unwrapped and given a slight coating of oil, this will act as a release agent for the rubber. it was then realigned on the base board.
Above: Here I have included an image of half of the plaster jacket replaced, to show how the clay has left a cavity for the rubber.
Below: The mould jacket is realigned on the board, clamped down, and clay is used to make pour funnels and to seal all of the seams to prevent rubber leaking out.
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